Niacinamide and Your Skin: What the Research Actually Says

Niacinamide is one of the most widely studied ingredients in skincare, and you will find it on the ingredient list of many serums and moisturisers sold here in Parnell and across Auckland. It is a form of vitamin B3 that has been examined in a number of peer-reviewed clinical studies for the way it relates to the look and feel of skin. Below is a plain-language summary of what the published research describes, with links to the studies so you can read them for yourself.

What niacinamide is

Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3. In cosmetic formulations it is commonly included at concentrations of around 2 to 5 percent. In one 12-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face study, topical niacinamide was reported as well tolerated by the skin while still producing measurable changes compared with a control Bissett et al., International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2004. Tolerability can vary from person to person, so a patch test is sensible before regular use.

Niacinamide and the skin's moisture barrier

The outer layer of skin, called the stratum corneum, relies on lipids such as ceramides and free fatty acids to help hold moisture in place. Some studies have looked at how topical niacinamide relates to this surface layer.

• In one study, application of nicotinamide was associated with increased ceramide and free fatty acid levels in the stratum corneum, and with decreased transepidermal water loss in dry skin Tanno et al., British Journal of Dermatology 2000.
• A later study of the molecular and biophysical properties of the stratum corneum reported that areas treated with niacinamide-containing formulations showed decreased transepidermal water loss and increased stratum corneum thickness compared with baseline and untreated or vehicle-control sites Mohammed et al., International Journal of Pharmaceutics 2013.

Transepidermal water loss is simply one measure researchers use to describe how well the skin's surface holds on to moisture. These are observations recorded in the studies named above, and individual results will differ.

Niacinamide and the look of dark spots and uneven tone

Uneven tone and the appearance of dark spots are common cosmetic concerns. Several controlled studies have looked at how topical niacinamide relates to these.

• In a vehicle-controlled study, niacinamide was associated with a decrease in the appearance of hyperpigmentation and an increase in measured skin lightness compared with vehicle after four weeks of use Hakozaki et al., British Journal of Dermatology 2002.
• In a separate double-blind, randomised clinical study carried out in a clinical setting, researchers recorded improvement in the appearance of pigmentation in participants with melasma Navarrete-Solís et al., Dermatology Research and Practice 2011. Melasma is a clinical skin condition that should be assessed and managed by a qualified professional. This is published research and is not a statement that any cosmetic product treats melasma or any other condition.
• A 12-week, double-blind study in aging facial skin also reported improvements versus control in the appearance of hyperpigmented spots and red blotchiness Bissett et al., International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2004.

These are appearance-based, cosmetic observations recorded in the studies, and individual results will differ.

Niacinamide, texture and fine lines

The look of skin texture and fine lines has also been examined in double-blind, vehicle-controlled work.

• In a 12-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face study of women aged 40 to 60, topical 5 percent niacinamide was associated with improvements versus control in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, texture, hyperpigmentation spots and red blotchiness Bissett et al., International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2004.
• A related analysis described a range of skin appearance observations with topical niacinamide, including a reduction in the look of fine lines and wrinkles and red blotchiness, alongside a measure of skin elasticity (cutometry) that was reported as improved Bissett et al., Dermatologic Surgery 2005.

Adding niacinamide to your routine

If you would like to try niacinamide, it sits comfortably in most morning or evening routines, usually applied after cleansing and before heavier creams. One option we stock at Verdo is Medik8 Niacinamide Peptides 30ml, a lightweight serum that pairs niacinamide with supporting peptides. As with any new product, introduce it gradually and patch test on a small area first. If you have a specific skin concern or are using other active ingredients, it is worth speaking with a qualified professional before you begin.

Disclaimer: This article is for general information only and is not medical advice. The studies cited are peer-reviewed and provided for educational context. Individual results vary. Speak with a qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist before changing your routine. Verdo Cosmetics makes no therapeutic claims about the products mentioned.